Sühring, Bangkok.

So this was our much-anticipated dinner – Sühring.

We arrived promptly at 7pm to a gorgeous glass house set amidst luscious greenery. It was like something out of a fairytale. Soft light, a gentle buzz of activity, and a warmth the exuded from its sleek, homely interior. If you look to the left of the picture below, I happened to catch one of the Sühring brothers by the reception.

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Our best friends!

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And US!

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We were all extremely excited to dine here, although we tried to manage our expectations as much as possible after Bo.Lan. I had heard so many wonderful things about the food at Sühring and actually wanted to dine there a couple of years back. Florian wasn’t too thrilled about having German food in Thailand but all that changed after Sühring was awarded their Michelin stars.

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All their tableware were manufactured specially for Sühring in Japan. They were beautiful pieces of art in their own right.

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Service was warm and attentive, being neither strictly formal nor overly casual. Their description of each dish was clear and they were patient whenever we asked for it to be repeated for clarification.

There was only one dinner menu, with the option of adding on classic items such as currywurst or pork knuckle, and switching their main to wagyu beef for a supplementary fee. Also, there’s the choice to include a half flight or full flight of wine pairing. The dinner menu lists everything from their amuse bouche to petit fours so there are no surprises or extra bites. I liked that although some may prefer the element of surprise.

Their menu is cleverly divided into three chapters – starters, mains, desserts. Each dish, in my opinion, was well thought out and executed. As I sit here typing, I can still recall every single dish that was served, how they tasted, and how much I wish to return to that evening to savour everything once more.

Chapter One

Leberkäse

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mit Bier und Limonade aka Alster

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Our meal commenced on a high with a mini sausage patty atop a mini pretzel bun half and a quail’s egg. To go with was a tiny mug of Water from the Alster – a refreshing mix of beer and lemonade.

The miniature burger had a sweetness from what I believe to be homemade ketchup, saltiness from the patty, and a creaminess from the egg to keep the one-bite lovely and moist. There was a whimsy in this starter from the daintiness of each item. They looked almost too good to eat, almost. Thankfully, they also tasted as good as they looked.

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Brathering

I was looking forward to this second dish being a huge fan of mackerel.

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Smoked herring, sweet yellow beetroot on a whole-wheat cracker.

This quickly brought me back to Landungsbrücken, where my favourite Bismarkherring brötchen in Hamburg is found. We never fail to go there whenever we visit Hamburg.

This rendition was the perfect mouthful with the cracker creating a crunch not unlike that of freshly baked bread roll, with its crust shattering as you bite into it. The fish was moist and had a good smoke; its saltiness was offset by the natural sweetness of the beetroot. My only regret was that it was over all too soon!

Chicken Salad

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Chicken with Onion and Mushrooms Tart topped with Butterhead Lettuce Sphere.

We were a little divided on this one. I loved the burst of vegetal juice that was unleashed when the sphere broke within my mouth. It gave way to a rich, velvety filling that still retained chunks of chicken to bite into, with the spiciness of black pepper lingering at the end.

Florian and Zen weren’t too excited by the flavour of the lettuce, finding it much too liquid and too ‘green’. I think the wateriness of it was to make a quick appearance rather than idle around and mingle too long with the other components. At least this way, each part is allowed their turn to shine.

Enleta

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Just like my husband, the Sühring brothers apparently loved eating Hanuta growing up. This course was conceived from that childhood memory.

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It was clever packed in their own individual packet, complete with a nutritional label behind.

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A Hazelnut Wafer sandwiching Duck Liver and Apricot Jam was served with Apricot Vinegar. Again, not being a fan of foie gras, I was hesitant about liking this pretty, playful starter. While livery, it wasn’t quite as bad as those pan-seared slabs of foie gras that I find too heavy.

The apricot jam cut the fattiness and the crunch of the wafer gave each mouthful some texture. Interestingly, the vinegar, which was thick and syrupy with a sweet, tart profile, served to bring out even more flavour from the liver. At the same time, it washed down its richness, removing the potential for it to get too cloying.

Frankfurter Grüne Sosse

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With the word ‘Frankfurter’, sausages immediately came to mind. This however, was a play on Frankfurt’s ‘green sauce’ made from 9 different fine herbs. Sitting at the base was a smooth Egg Cream, rather like chawanmushi’s weightier cousin, and on top were Crispy Potato Strips.

This last starter was a slight miss for all of us. Although very eye-catching, it failed to create a lasting effect on our tastebuds. Flavourwise, it was mellow. I expected the sauce to be a lot more herbaceous than it was. The crisp potato strips ended up being the highlight here for me. Still, it was a good dish; just not as memorable and exceptional as the four starters that came before it.

Chapter Two

Aal Grün

Smoked Eel Dumplings filled with Chopped Cooked Eel with a Cucumber and Parsley Sauce.

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These were little parcels of delight!

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Thin slices of smoked eel wrapped around chopped eel flecked with dill. It was smoky and sweet, with bursts of finely chopped cucumber to give it a fresh crunch. There was a delicacy in which the eel was prepared and it certainly opened our eyes to eel being more than ‘unagi’.

I understand that smoked eel is a delicacy in Berlin, even in Hamburg. However, I never had it in Germany before. Florian says it was because it’s quite a fatty fish and was afraid I may not enjoy it. Whhhhuuuut?! But I love unagi and like to order the Jyo Unagi Nigiri whenever we dine at Japanese restaurants. I’ll have to try the original smoked eel now the next time we’re in Germany.

Brotzeit

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Of course, there had to be the Bread course. Warm Sourdough served alongside Horseradish Cream and Smoked Salmon; Liverwurst topped with Duck Fat; Homemade Pickles and Bündnerfleisch (or cured, air-dried beef).

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The pickles were highly addictive. They had a light crunch, leaning more to the sweeter side than sour. I would have re-capped the bottle and taken it home with me… only I was too shy to.

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Eating it the German way with each bite of bread being topped with something different. I enjoyed the fattiness of the salmon which was very lightly smoked if I am not wrong. The horseradish cream would have been nicer with a bit more kick.

Leipziger Allerlei

Originally from Leipzig, this dish was created during the war when food was scarce. It started off as a vegetable dish consisting of peas, carrots, green beans, asparagus, morels and celery (according to Wiki).

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What the Sühring brothers did was they elevated this dish with the use of Lobster, while taking elements from the traditional Allerlei. In this case, there was a Morel Mushroom Mousse, Carrots, Asparagus and Green Peas as garnish, Pea puree, Lobster Butter Drizzle and Roasted Rapeseed Oil.

If Heaven had a flavour, this would be it! The lobster cooked to medium-rare was springy and fresh. I would never have imagined lobster going with mushrooms, but the moreish earthy tones of the mousse paired magically with the seafood, giving it an added depth to its lightness. The lobster butter was expectedly packed with umami and the touch of bitterness from the vegetables balanced this dish off beautifully. Possibly our favourite dish of the evening!

Zander – cooked over cedar wood

German Pike-Perch with Egg White, Pea and Lemon Cream, Sour Cream, and Riesling Sauce.

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Light, clean-tasting, firm but tender fish. The white wine sauce was quite on the salty side for Les and I, but together with the fish, it was more well-rounded. Not my favourite even though the pike-perch was perfectly cooked.

Hungarian Duck – aged for 7 days / Cauliflower

Halfway into our starters, we were shown our smoked duck – soon to be plated up for our mains. Sitting on a bed of rosemary and thyme, skin browned and glistening, its aroma wafted out of the cast iron pot and served only to whet our appetites.

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Just prior to the duck being served, we were presented with a box of knives to choose from. From the bottom of the box up, these were two of each specially made in Cambodia, the US, and the UK respectively,

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The Hungarian duck was served perfectly pink, with its fat rendered down to crisp up the skin. The blob of cauliflower puree topped with coffee powder looked tame, but held all the promises of being robust and smokey within every one of its atom. To the left was a grilled cauliflower floret and crispy cauliflower.

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The meat was tender and supple, sweet and gamey. The duck jus came shiny and smooth. It was divine in its complexed simplicity. I would have finished it all, if not for the prospect of desserts. With almost all the food hitting the right notes, I had high hopes for our closing chapter at Sühring.

Don’t worry, Florian and Zen shared what remained of my duck.

Chapter Three

Apricot / Hazelnut / Pumpkin

Crispy Pumpkin and Apricot Jam, Hazelnut Crumble, Pistachio Cream and Sour Ice-Cream served with Honey Wine.

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Three spoonfuls and it was gone. Sweet – check; sour – check; crunchy – check. If all else fails, just drink the honey wine and the dessert will go down a treat!

Honestly though, this was a lovely start to Chapter Three. It was light and refreshing, with all of us trying to dig around for more hazelnut crumble even after the plate was licked clean.

White Chocolate / Cherry / Roasted Rye

Different textures of Sour Cherry – Cherry Sorbet, Cherry Purée, Cherry Tuile with Roasted Rye, White Chocolate Cream and Hazelnut Cream

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Lesley found this a bit too tart, but the rest of us enjoyed the gaiety surrounding the use of sour cherries. The sweetness of the white chocolate cream offset the sourness, although the flavour of the chocolate was not very pronounced, Instead, the hazelnut cream shined and proved more than addictive for me. I would have loved a large jar of it to take home and eat by the spoonful! The roasted rye was malty and nutty, helping to tone done the sharpness of the fruit.

Oma’s Eierlikör with Käsekuchen

Following Grandma Sühring’s recipe for Eierlikör aka eggnog, we were treated to exactly what the chefs grew up drinking every Easter.

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It was generously spiked with vodka, and was comforting in the way creamy things tend to be. However, I found it too eggy for my liking. Florian on the other hand, lapped up a few cups of the eggnog, taking himself back to his own growing up years in Germany. He said that the egginess is exactly what he loves about this drink.

The Sühring rendition of German Käsekuchen or Cheesecake was made with digestive crackers on either side of a thick square of cheesecake filling.

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I’m a sucker for good cheesecake and while not the typical cheesecake we often see, this bite-sized version was so delicious it left me wanting long after they were gone. Florian was disappointed that they didn’t use the traditional Quark to make the filling because it’s supposedly not sold in Bangkok. His crestfallen face gave me hope of having his piece but alas, he popped his into his mouth and proceeded to happily clean all the crumbs off both serving plates.

Süssigkertenbox

Dinner came to a reluctant end with the arrival of the Sweets Box.

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These were what I’d consider, their Petit-fours. We could have one of each, or choose the ones we wanted.

Lesley, Zen and Florian tried all of them – Chocolate covered Baumkuchen, Raspberry Pâte de Fruit, Caramel Chocolate Tart, and White Chocolate with Pistachio and Cinnamon.

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Note a fan of pâte de fruit no matter how good, and having had one too many bad baumkuchens, I zeroed in on the Caramel Chocolate Tart (or Toffifee as Florian likened it to), and the White Chocolate.

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It was in no way like Toffifee with its smooth, buttery caramel, slightly salted. There was a lot some salt within the white chocolate to highlight the sweetness of the chocolate. The hints of cinnamon and textures from the pistachio against the smooth shell was rather a pleasure to eat – yet another thing I’d have loved to have more of!

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Before we even stepped out of the restaurant, I was already wishing for a return back whenever that may be. Sühring’s menu changes every quarterly so I pray that their standards are consistent with, or surpassing even, our experience this time.

Dinner was THB 4800 per person (SGD215), with water being free of charge. Florian and Zen had an espresso each which was THB 180 (SGD 8.10). These prices exclude taxes. With taxes it came to about SGD250 per person.

All in all, I thought that it was money well spent. I liked that every course was full of thought. Portions were on the lighter side which suited me perfectly. For once, I was able to go through every dish happily, without feeling weighed down by the time dessert came around. If you can only splurge on one meal while in Bangkok, let it be Sühring.

More than the exquisite gastronomical journey, being together with Zen and Lesley made dinner even more special. We’re all into food, so being able to talk about all the dishes we had was truly a shared experience that will be etched into our memories for a long time to come. I have no clue when we’ll get to revisit Sühring, but in the meantime, I look forward to exploring more fine-dining establishments, as well as scrummy food in general, with my favourite man and my favourite people.

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